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The 3 Day Budget Kruger Park Tour
The 3 Day Budget Kruger Park Tour.
This detailed, first-person report of our 3-day Kruger Park Bungalow Safari explains exactly what to expect on a short Kruger National Park safari.
My journey on Sunday, the day before my Kruger safari
A Sunday morning wake-up call at 7:00 a.m. was an early start, particularly following a late night at the yearly Cape Town Carnival. How could I say no to a VIP invitation? Sunday morning was demanding after a night of dancing and applauding the parade of artists and entertainers, and I was happy that I had packed the day before.
Packing for Kruger: clothing and necessities
I packed for all seasons for my third trip to Kruger National Park, which was my second visit in March near the end of the rainy summer: hiking boots and sandals; layers of shorts and shirts and a rain jacket just in case; a warm hoodie and woolly beanie for chilly early morning game drives; and board shorts for the expected hot afternoons and potential dip in the Skukuza camp swimming pool.
My list of necessities included: a lantern for nighttime camp wandering; toiletries like sunscreen, hats, and bug repellent; charged batteries; and, of course, the indispensable camera, lenses, and binoculars. I woke up prepared for the 40-minute drive from the South Peninsula of Cape Town to the airport, having checked everything off and packed it into my soft backpack and day bag.
After grabbing a quick breakfast and coffee, I was prepared to take the two-hour flight to Johannesburg. My journey had officially started when my low-cost Mango flight was getting ready to land at O.R. Tambo Airport, “doors to manual,” before I could even listen to Vampire Weekend’s Modern Vampires Of The City and Penguin Cafe Orchestra’s Signs Of Life.
Mos, the amiable driver/guide at the lodge, greeted me in the domestic arrivals hall. He was difficult to miss, holding a placard with my name on it. After a quick ten-minute drive, my host Francois Jones greeted me and gave me a tour of the cozy, tranquil lodging, which was housed in a guest house with a rustic yet stylish design.
The optional half-day Cradle of Humanity Tour
Before our transport was prepared to go for the half-day tour to the Cradle of Humankind, which I had organized through the lodge, I was entertained by the amiable and personable Francois after I had had a chance to freshen up. Unfortunately, the first hominoid bones of Australopithecus africanus, also known as “Mrs. Ples,” were found near the Sterkfontein Caves, which were closed because of floods. We learned a lot about our shared heritage with chimpanzees and gorillas, as well as how we coexist with many diverse cultures on Earth today, during our group’s fascinating visit to the interactive visitors’ center in Maropeng. “We define our self-perception through our relationships with others,” reads a placard. Very quiet!
With a four-hour stay and two hours of travel time, the excursion lasted six hours in total. Francois cooked a delicious three-course dinner that night, which included a starter of halloumi and berry salad, a seared ostrich fillet accompanied with potatoes and steamed veggies, and a chocolate mousse for dessert.
On Monday, let’s start the safari to the Bush.
I got up at precisely six o’clock, and shortly after breakfast, our transfer left for the five-hour drive to Kruger National Park. The drive was enjoyable because of Mpumalanga’s diverse and lush farms. A wide variety of crops can be grown in the hot and humid Lowveld, including sugar cane, citrus, avocado, macadamia, and bananas.
Debbie, our knowledgeable safari guide, met and greeted our group of ten when we arrived at Skukuza camp in the Kruger National Park. As we drank glasses of cold orange juice—a wonderful respite from the 35+ degree heat—she told us our tour schedule. We had lunch at one of the Skukuza camp restaurants while our driver handled the SANParks check-in process. I chose the braai (barbecue) section and ordered the classic South African dish pap & wors (maize and sausage) with chakalaka, a sauce made with onions and tomatoes that was originally given in prisons!
Our driver picked us up from the dining area and drove us to the lodging, which has rooms to suit every budget. With its bed, PowerPoint, fan, shower gel, and towel, camping is more akin to glamping. Despite not being opulent, my rondavel-style chalet (bungalow) was tidy and comfortable, featuring a tiny kitchenette, a private toilet, and an air-conditioned bedroom.
Debbie quickly picked us up once we had settled in for our first game drive, which took place from 15:00 to 18:00 in the late afternoon or early evening. Rolling thunder and far-off lighting created an evocative atmosphere that was ideal for this exhilarating event. Debbie, our astute tour guide, was very thorough and patient.
She drove slowly and stopped whenever she saw a bird or a beast. We were rewarded with the unique chance to witness a pearl-spotted owl, which is uncommon, even for Debbie, who had not seen one in a long time. As a would-be twitcher, I was in my element when I saw the European rollers, hammerkops, lilac-breasted rollers, fork-tailed drongos, hornbills, francolins, African turtle doves, and guinea fowls swooping in plenty just before dusk. Additionally, we were able to see a mother white rhino with her young.
After seeing herds of bovine fauna and antelope, we eventually spotted three of the four male lions Debbie had said. We stayed with these three brothers for a long time without seeing any other cars. An exceptional and unique moment for our group. As the sun began to set, transforming the gloomy grey clouds into surreal shades of orange, gold, purple, and red, we had to hurry back to the camp.
Before supper, we had a little time to change back at the tents and chalets. Our chef prepared a delicious three-course meal, which included a beginning of grilled tomato and eggplant stack with a balsamic sauce, a main course of ostrich steak, and a dessert of melktert, a custardy South African staple. Red and white wine were provided freely throughout the lunch. After a long day, I was ready for another early night with a full stomach and an empty wine glass. I fell asleep quickly after being welcomed by the pleasant, air-conditioned room with mosquito screens on the windows and doors.
Tuesday was a full day in Kruger Park—in the Bush. I got out of bed at 5:30, and we headed out on our first early morning game drive in our specially designed safari vehicle after having a quick cup of tea with muffins and fruit.
As soon as the park’s gates opened at the camp, we departed at precisely 6:00. A spectacular sunrise and additional sightings of pied kingfishers, Africa’s largest heron, and bee-eaters were the rewards of this three-hour game drive. The mother and infant hippo doing what they do best—wallowing in the water—was suddenly visible to us. Soon after, there was a herd of amusing baboons, giraffes, elephants, antelopes, golden orb spiders, and even flap-necked chameleons.
As our comfortable, specially-built Toyota Hilux game-viewing vehicle smoothly navigated the cold morning in Kruger, my warm sweatshirt and fuzzy beanie came in handy. After a long day of viewing animals, we were rewarded with a substantial breakfast when we returned to camp at 9:00. We informed the other group, who were lucky enough to see the elusive leopard, of our sightings. We spent the remainder of the late morning and early afternoon sipping cold Windhoek Lager and thinking back on the trip so far while lounging in the shaded Skukuza camp restaurant area with a view of the Sabi River.
Before embarking on our second late afternoon to early evening game drive, the party assembled for refreshments at 14:30. As we returned to our open 4×4 car, a female antelope, known as a klipspringer, entertained us with her cud while posing for sunset atop a massive bolder. Debbie was strolling past some sly hornbills when she noticed a spotted hyena cub, contentedly lounging close to the entrance to its den.
Additional bird species were discovered, such as a forest kingfisher being disturbed by the lilac-breasted roller, the most photographed bird, who is obviously looking for some camera action! As dusk neared, we descended to a water hole and spent some time with a group of carmine bee-eaters, waterbuck, and hippos.
Debbie was certain that a big herd of buffalo that had been seen earlier in the distance would cross the road and allow us to get up close, so she suggested that we keep going. We received slightly more than we had anticipated, and Debbie calculated that there were perhaps 500 buffalo. The steady flow of buffalo seemed to go on forever.
As dusk approached, we spotted another flap-necked chameleon. A herd of elephants attacked us before we could reach our “home from home.” We were compelled to pause and see a stunning and powerful near encounter. The best part of our game drive was getting up close and personal with these kind giants. They ignored our car and accepted our non-threatening presence. With the gathering in stillness and wonder and the wildlife up close, these kinds of moments can change people’s lives. We arrived at the Skukuza gate late, but the SANParks workers greeted us with broad smiles after the last elephant had departed.
We excitedly awaited another healthy meal as we gathered around an open fire for a late sundowner around 19:30. Our chef prepared beef bredie, which is similar to beef stroganoff, a Greek salad appetizer, and chocolate mousse with raspberries for dessert tonight. We went back to the campfire for beverages and stories of the day after supper. It was a late night in the bush at 23:00, and I returned to my cozy chalet bed after telling tall tales and having a good laugh.
The last early start time was Wednesday at 05:30, so I packed my bags for the lengthy trip home and took the scenic road back to civilization. Before we started our “Groot Trek” homeward, we said goodbye to our hosts and safari companions who were spending further nights in Kruger National Park and had tea and muffins. We were greeted with views of vultures, elephants, zebras, giraffes, and lions after an hour-long drive through the park’s gates.
The air-conditioned Toyota Quantum was a comfortable vehicle for our departure. After bidding farewell to Kruger National Park, we reached Graskop an hour later for breakfast and the start of the Panorama Route. We went to the breathtaking God’s Window perspective, Lisbon Falls, the Three Rondavels, and the Blyde River Canyon viewpoint. The latter ranks first for being the greenest, yet it is the third largest canyon in the world, behind the Grand Canyon in the United States and the Fish River in Namibia.
I realize I haven’t used my waterproofs once after a five-hour trip back to Johannesburg. I am left off at O.R. Tambo at around 17:30, giving me plenty of time to check in for my 19:20 Kulula flight back to Cape Town. All I could think about on the two-hour journey back to Cape Town was returning to the woods.