Hogsback – Tolkien’s Middle Earth in the Amathole Mountains of South Africa.

Get off the beaten path and make your trip to South Africa more special by going to the distinctive location thought to have served as Tolkien’s inspiration. This is a unique and quaint settlement in the Eastern Cape Province’s Hogsback, a less-visited area of the nation.

This hilly tiny settlement, which resembles Tolkien’s imaginary Middle Earth, is not featured in every South African vacation photo album. Nonetheless, it is highly regarded by those who do travel to Hogsback and is definitely worth a visit.

Was Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings truly inspired by Hogsback?

It’s true that JRR Tolkien was born in Bloemfontein, a town in the Free State, in 1892. However, at the age of three, this well-known author of fiction left South Africa to live in England with his mother and brother. Therefore, it is improbable that Hogsback actually served as the inspiration for his fantasy trilogy or any of his subsequent works. Or is it? Some claim that during those early, formative years of his life, his family traveled to Hogsback.

Undoubtedly, it is extremely unlikely that Tolkien, who was just three years old at the time, was so profoundly and permanently impacted that it would go on to inspire a story that was approximately 1200 pages long. Oh, but there’s more: according to Xhosa tradition, his nanny was from Hogsback and told him enigmatic stories about her home at the base of the Hogs Mountains, where the enormous flying serpent is said to inhabit. Still not persuaded? According to reports, Tolkien’s son traveled to Hogsback on multiple occasions, delivering sketches and tales of the fascinating knolls, streams, and boughs he saw there.

Despite the lack of conclusive evidence, locals continue to run with this tenuous connection between John Ronald Reuel Tolkien and Hogsback, as evidenced by the numerous instances of Camelot, Hobbiton, Rivendell, River Running, The Shire, Lothlorien, Hobbit Lane, and Middle Earth appearing in the names of the town’s streets and properties. And when the misty hills, lanes, and forests of Hogsback seem to have the same vibe as Tolkien’s fantastical worlds, who can blame the inhabitants for letting their imaginations run a little wild?

The hidden treasure of Hogsback has plenty to offer anyone seeking a good dose of nature. Hogsback is a great location for peacefully taking in some truly amazing landscapes and finding inspiration in nature. You are free to relax, take your time, and rejuvenate yourself because there is no rush here. Many couples come here to get married in the charming tiny church on the hill, making the picturesque hills the perfect setting for a fireside romance.

Hike or mountain bike through the native Afro-montane forests, pine plantations, and the majestic Amatola Mountains (also spelled Amathole) for a cool and energizing experience. You may even take a bath in one of the crystal-clear mountain streams.

Hogsback has a broad appeal due to its abundance of activities, drawing in families, romantic couples, nature enthusiasts, backpackers, and adventure-seeking tourists.

Concerning the Hogsback Village

When British forces set up a station here in the late 19th century, the charming town was born. Unlike the majority of the province’s lower-lying cities and towns, the village has distinct seasons, which adds to the charmingly European atmosphere created by its flowery gardens, historic stone structures, and tree-lined pathways. Small company owners, retirees, young families, professionals, foresters, conservationists, and creatives (artists, poets, musicians, and photographers) make up the local population.

Hogsback is a one-street town, and halfway through the town, the main asphalt road becomes a dusty (or muddy) one, just like all the side roads that branch off of it. With the exception of the occasional livestock traffic jam, this area is free of malls, traffic lights, and extensive development. Even though the village only has one gas station outside of its one supermarket, the variety of small restaurants—some of which are really gems—and a few welcoming pubs more than make up for its lack of shopping conveniences.

Mist of Hogsback

Part of its allure is the fanciful atmosphere that descends upon the village when it vanishes under the thick fog or beneath a layer of snow, which is frequently obscured by heavy clouds. Upon observing the snow-capped mountains and dense woodlands, one can perceive the unearthly allure that has spawned regional legends asserting that Hogsback served as the inspiration for JRR Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings Trilogy.

The Hogsback Tree Hogs

The Three Hogs Mountains of the Amathole range, the most well-known local sight, inspired the name Hogsback. Their names come from the fact that these three mountains, which form the town’s gorgeous backdrop, like three racing hogs. Hiking, mountain biking, quad biking, rock climbing, and landscape photography are all heavily focused on the slopes and rocky ridges of these flat-topped mountains (Hog One, Two, and Three).

In addition to being a magical location suitable for fairies and hobbits, Hogsback is a sanctuary for nature lovers, making it a popular destination for hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers.

With more than 70 images, Trevor Webster’s The Story of Hogsback offers an intriguing look at the town’s past.

Activities in Hogsback That Are Free

Typically, visitors go to the tall Big Tree, a massive Yellowwood that is more than 800 years old, or follow one of the many walking routes that lead to tumbling waterfalls hidden away in the native woodlands. The goal is made worthwhile by gazing up at this magnificent large tree in the center of the verdant woodland.

Home of the Hogsback Waterfall

The most well-known waterfalls are 39 Steps in the Arboretum, Madonna & Child, Swallow’s Tail, and Kettle Spout. Even though I have been to each of these waterfalls multiple times, it is difficult to pick a favorite because they are all so beautiful and alluring.

You may swim in the natural ponds above Swallow’s Tail, go to the base of the large Madonna & Child waterfall to stand in the spray below, and take in the expansive views from the steep cliff tops at Kettle Spout. The arboretum’s 39 Steps Falls, which is easily accessible by foot from the village center, is the simplest stroll. The short but enjoyable walk passes through the gardens to Tyhume Stream via designated trails with names like Frog Crossing and Waterfall Way.

A highlight in and of itself is the Arboretum, which is the ideal location for a leisurely walk and a peaceful picnic amidst the variety of native and naturalized trees and shrubs. Well-kept pathways wind through the verdant gardens and cross little bridges to reach the waterfall and chairs in shady alcoves. Because many of the trees and bushes are prominently marked with their Latin and common names, a visit is also very educational. The greatest time to visit is in the fall, when the vivid orange, red, and yellow leaves are at their peak.

Views from the Hogsback Bluffs

Another short but fascinating walk is the Bluff Walk, which runs along the mountainside’s edge. Particularly from the summit, this trek provides breathtaking views of Tyume Valley and takes less than an hour. I frequently visit this reasonably level and spacious trail because it’s a safe area to go for a jog or a strenuous power walk outside.

The Edge Mountain Retreat is the perfect place for a lunch or coffee before or after a walk because it offers a fantastic restaurant just close to the bluff. Experience one of the world’s largest labyrinths by taking a free stroll through The Edge, and shop for handcrafted items, clothing, jewelry, and artwork at the Dreamery Store.

At the Starways Arts Centre, which is nestled in the forest, immerse yourself in thriving creativity. Admire master potter Anton van der Merwe’s stunning wood-fired reduction stoneware at his spacious studio. At Starways, where a vibrant community flourishes, you will also discover a gem of an art gallery and the magnificent Rose Theatre.

Cofounded by Anton and Gwyneth Lloyd, a gifted opera soprano and voice educator, Starways presents theatrical and musical performances that uplift local artists and audiences. The passionate diva behind the EastCape Opera Company and The Rose Starways, Gwyneth is essential to the growth of opera in the Eastern Cape Province.

Hogsback Chapel

Visit St. Patricks on the Hill, a charming chapel constructed by Kenneth Hobart Houghton in 1935. The chapel, which is made out of two interleading stone rondavels with thatched roofs, is a peaceful spot to think.

The chapel was nearly completely destroyed by fire in June 2010, but the community rebuilt it in less than a year. The children also adore the beautiful Fairy Realm garden. Discover fascinating miniature sculptures of fairies, dragons, goblins, and unicorns by following the small, meandering trails across the expansive garden.

Green Sanctuary, Hogsback

Diana Graham’s inspirational paintings, which depict the origins of the earth and its life forms and their interconnectedness, can be seen at the Ecology Shrine, an award-winning institution. A remarkable sculptural installation with these cosmic oil paintings is situated on a hill with a view of the Tyume valley and far-off mountains. Diana, an accomplished artist, has produced something very unique and significant here, which is why I highly suggest it and have personally enjoyed visiting the eco-shrine.

Graham Russell, a skilled birder and passionate bird photographer, will lead you on a guided bird watching walk through the ancient indigenous forests. A variety of bird species can be seen and heard, such as the endangered Cape Parrot, the long-crested eagle, the crowned eagle, and the beautiful Knysna Lourie with its vivid red plumes beneath its wings.

Riding horses in the Hogsback

Experience horseback riding at Terra-Khaya Eco-farm and Backpackers’ Amathole Horse Trails or Lowestoffe Country Lodge. I’m an avid horseback rider, and I’ve had great experiences riding with both Lowestoffe and Amathole. Just outside of Hogsback, Lowestoffe offers horseback riding on 5,500 hectares of open bush in the highlands.

We spotted some of the little bucks found here, such as black wildebeest, deer, steenbok, or blesbuck, and the untamed landscape of wide hills and bushveld was breathtaking. Additionally, they provide fly fishing in the abundant trout dams at Lowestoffe.

I will never forget my horseback ride with Amathole; I particularly enjoyed the organic riding technique and the unique relationship our guide had with the horses. Any equestrian or environment lover should not miss our bareback ride through the plantations and lush forests above the hamlet. I’ll attempt one of their overnight horse trails the next time!

All skill levels can enjoy the many mountain bike trails in this area; Hogsback is a mountain riding paradise (see Getaway). Whether you are a true novice or an extremely fit veteran, join Hogsback Adventures for guided mountain bike excursions.

The Hogsback Trek

Cycle through native forests and historic pine plantations on jeep tracks and meandering trails, stopping at waterfalls before continuing on to the open hills and Robinson Dam for a lunch. This vibrant group of knowledgeable and certified guides can also lead you on forest treks while imparting their vast knowledge of the local flora, animals, history, and cultures. An exhilarating 35-meter abseil down the face of Madonna and Child Waterfall is offered by Hogsback Adventures for those seeking more extreme experience.

For panoramic views of the Seymour valley and the Elandsberg mountains, go mountain climbing and hike to the top of Gaika’s Kop, the highest peak at about 1700 meters. A reasonable level of fitness is advised for the ascent because it’s a legitimate hike. They claim that you can see the coast around 120 kilometers away on a clear day. The views from the top were worth every step, even though I didn’t get a sight of the ocean in the distance either time I ascended.

Additionally, there are several ways to ascend Hog One, Two, and Three; the most common path is to Hog One. I have scaled these unusual mountains, but always in the company of other hikers or a reliable guide.

The Three Hog Mountains

Don’t try mountain climbing without guides and professional counsel unless you are really experienced, as the weather in the Hogsback can change abruptly and being up in the mountains when conditions change suddenly can be dangerous. Tor Doone is the simplest mountain climbing option; it can be completed in a few hours from the Arboretum and provides gratifying 360° views of the surrounding mountains and hills.
Treat yourself to revitalizing massages or deep reflexology treatments if all of this climbing and hiking seems like too much exertion.

Annual Hogsback Events
Hogsback in the snow

July Christmas is a cheerful occasion that celebrates a White Christmas in the middle of the year, similar to that of the northern hemisphere. The largest yearly event, which draws both families and young people, usually falls during the winter snows that fall here.

With the exception of some of its highlands, such as Hogsback Mountain, snowfall is rare in the Eastern Cape and very few other parts of South Africa. When snow comes, tourists (particularly residents from nearby cities) swarm to the town to play in the snow, making snow angels, throwing snowballs, building snowmen, getting stuck in the snowy roads, and more.

During Christmas in July, the town is a hive of activity, with a thriving arts and crafts market and musical concerts. Try an ox-wagon ride for something unusual, or partake in wine tasting, savor delectable baked goods and home-cooked meals, and adventure sports. The ‘thing to do’ is to drink the warming gluvine while strolling around wearing a Christmas hat. If you want to enjoy a white Christmas in Africa, make reservations in advance as accommodations are frequently fully booked.

If you enjoy English gardens with their multicolored blooms, you’ll love the Annual Spring Garden Festival, which attracts gardening clubs from all across South Africa. Access to about a dozen well-established private gardens in Hogsback is available for a nominal price. Exotic flora from far-flung Australia, Europe, the Himalayan Mountains, China, Japan, and North America are among the unusual blends of the native and alien that may be found on the properties on Hogsback Mountain. With its own website, the Hogsback Garden Club showcases a plethora of vibrant flowers, bushes, and other plants.

Even those who are not interested in gardening will enjoy the lovely flowers and well-kept lawns, especially when paired with a sophisticated tea at one of the hotels beneath the large old trees. My favorite place to have a colonial-style high tea is the peaceful Arminel Hotel.
The Amatola Trail Run, also known as the Hobbit 100, ends in Hogsback after traveling a section of the well-known Amatola Hiking Trail via a river and forest. Over the course of two days, this strenuous and picturesque staged trail race culminates in a social party in Hogsback on the second night.

Coffee shops and eating out

The serious in-house barista at Gallery Square, located in the center of “town,” makes what is likely the greatest coffee in Hogsback. This welcoming and eccentric cafe also has an art gallery exhibiting locals’ pictures and artwork, as well as some adorable crafts and hidden gems.

With tables and chairs outside beneath a massive old oak tree, Butterfly’s Bistro is a bright and colorful place to be. This welcoming and imaginatively decorated restaurant serves vegetarian specialties, has a relaxed atmosphere, and is a great area to see Samango monkeys in the nearby trees and hear the endangered Cape parrots.

The Edge Restaurant offers delectable traditional cuisine (mutton shank, half-duck, etc.) together with a good cup of tea and exquisite cakes. The restaurant’s outdoor space is set in lovely gardens next to the open Bluff area, and it has a typical eclectic character. They also cater to vegans and have great wood-fired pizzas and burgers.

My favorite restaurant in town is Nutwoods Restaurant! For special events or some exquisite dining in a cozy and sophisticated atmosphere, this is the place to go. Every course is a great culinary experience, the service is excellent, and the menu is inventive.

The greatest spot to get a sense of the social scene up on the mountain and immerse yourself in Hogsback Village culture is Happy Hogs. You can unwind in the welcoming tiny pub, laugh heartily in the lively setting, and enjoy substantial servings of delectable pub fare in the cozy restaurant.

The Best Accommodations in Hogsback

Terra-Khaya Backpackers, situated on an eco-farm in the hills, is unquestionably the most distinctive and environmentally conscious. An experience of environmental sustainability in action is what Terra-Khaya has to offer. This alternate location is rustic and unpretentious, yet cozy and endearing, with farm animals and vegetable gardens rounding out the environmentally responsible experience. A large portion of the healthful cuisine is made from fresh vegetables from the garden and their own dairy products, and Terra-Khaya is totally off the grid, using solar energy and wood-fired heating.

The Edge and upscale Daneswold Cottage are the greatest places to see the best views in Hogsback. The restored ancient cottage in Daneswold has sweeping views of the valleys, mountains, and settlement below. The Edge is actually situated securely on the precipice of a cliff, with a view of the broad valley plains beyond and a canyon of native plants. The Edge Mountain Retreat offers a variety of well-appointed lodging options, ranging from cozy mid-range cottages and self-catering chalets to opulent bed-and-breakfast rooms with en suite bathrooms.

My first choice for a luxurious English rural stay is the Arminel Hotel, which offers well-appointed en suite rooms or thatched chalets. Established in the 1880s, the Hogsback Inn is the oldest hotel in Hogsback. It boasts a cozy English tavern-style pub with a charming old-world vibe. The hotel is situated on lush grounds and can accommodate conferences, weddings, and other events, just as the Arminel.

With Double Drift wildlife Reserve just 50km away, hogsback make an excellent addition to Garden Route vacations or safaris in the Eastern Cape’s malaria-free wildlife areas. Hogsback is also a popular destination for international tourists and goes well with excursions to South Africa’s untamed Wild Coast and Sunshine Coast. Hogsback is also a stop on certain longer itineraries that travel from Cape Town to Kruger via Lesotho.
Even though I didn’t see any fantastical animals in Hogsback, I nevertheless fell in love with this serene location, pleased to watch fireflies, listen to frog choruses, and gaze up at the innumerable stars in this enchanted wonderland.

How to Get to Hogsback

This village’s attractiveness lies in its isolation. It is a real retreat in the lesser-known Eastern Cape Province, miles from any big metropolis.

The nearest cities are Port Elizabeth (about three and a half hours away) and East London (approximately two hours away). Grahamstown is a good addition to the National Arts Festival, and it’s only a two-hour journey from Hogsback. Hogsback is visited by certain organized South African tours to the Eastern Cape and Wild Coast, but if you want to spend more time in the community, a self-drive journey is your best bet.

See what low-cost group tours can be paired with a Hogsback vacation by looking through our calendar of trips leaving from Port Elizabeth.